This dark, relatively tight-knit Rioja proves that the Gran Reserva category doesn't just indicate the supremely well-aged, relaxed and reposeful style of Rioja, but can also serve to draw drinkers' attention to outstanding wines of density and tenacity which still have a way to run along their potential ageing trajectories. Look out for dark, urgent fruits here sweetened and back-lit by cunningly angled oak, with intense, deep, fresh and searching flavours in which the 10% of Graciano seems to be working overtime. A Rioja of innate drama.
91pts Wine Spectator
This polished red is focused and harmonious. Black cherry, tea, licorice, dried orange and spice notes mingle over firm, well-integrated tannins, while orange peel acidity keeps this lively. Expressive, in the traditional style. Drink now through 2024.
91pts James Suckling
Lots of vanilla, chocolate-coated blackberries, cedar, tobacco and glazed dark cherries. Medium to full body, succulent tannins and a fruit-driven but tangy finish. Drink in 2021.
Brilliant ruby color, with russet tones. Mature and elegant, its aromatic richness is changing and subtle, becoming more apparent as the wine breathes. Notes of toast and coconut followed by tertiary aromas (leather, wet earth), and red fruit and dried fruit. Round, silky tannins, persistent and complex aftertaste.
Ideal accompaniment for roast suckling lamb, game, or red meat.