92 - 94pts Robert Parker's The Wine Advocate
Piuze told me that his 2018 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos had become atypically aromatic during its élevage, and that it was only just now beginning to shut down. So, I prefer to offer only a bracketed score for this full-bodied, broad and voluptuous wine that's evocative of musky peach and honeycomb. I'll be tasting it again next year.
The 2018 vintage represents the tenth anniversary of Quebecois Patrick Piuze's négociant operation this year, and there's no denying that his presence has enriched the region. At this address, hand-harvested grapes are pressed firmly in old Vaslin presses, their juice fermented in used barrels and stainless steel, with sur lie élevage of comparatively short duration, because Piuze wished to capture the maximum of freshness and energy by early bottling. The resulting wines are elegantly textural but incisive, clearly differentiated by site. This is also the best address to explore the Chablis AOC, as Piuze produces a number of cuvées and lieu-dit bottlings designed to highlight the diversity that this large appellation encompasses. 2017s at this address are an unmitigated success, classic in profile, with charming fruit but tangy balancing acids. While his 2018s are unlikely to hit quite such high heights, Piuze took pains to harvest in a timely fashion and has been rewarded by an abundant crop of fine wines, several highlights of which are indicated in the accompanying notes, and the wines come warmly recommended.