95pts Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

The 2023 Rozas village from Rozas de Puerto Real comes from different vineyards (five) totaling five hectares on granite soils at an average altitude of 900 meters. It's juicy and has notes of pomegranate and strawberry and the powdery texture akin to chalk. It's clean and tasty. 11,298 bottles produced. It was bottled in August 2024. There will also be a 1er Cru (a selection of the best two vineyards) in 2023 that I should taste next year.

94pts James Suckling

Smoke, herbs, pomegranate and some ethereal bramble berries. This is firm, nicely chewy and chalky, with sandy tannins, smoke and grilled grapefruit in the pristine, lengthy finish. Drink or hold.

About the Wine

Rozas Village comes from 5 vineyard plots of Garnacha located in a narrow valley formed by the seasonal Arroyo Mingogil at the foot of Cerro de los Corzos. Situated close to the Grand Cru Las Umbrias parcel and the source for Mingogil 1er Cru, this corner of Rozas de Puerto Real shares a variation on the theme of lithe and winsome mountain Garnacha, with bright forward red fruit enlivened with minerality and scent of mountain herbs.

About the Winery

A short distance away from Madrid, the rugged, weathered peaks of the Sierra de Gredos serve as a refreshingly cool retreat from the heat and bustle of the capital. Ancient hilltop towns and cottages dot the tortured landscape of alpine meadows, tumbled boulders, and thick scrub brush. Clustered around this rugged range are several DOs, most notably Mentrida and Viños de Madrid, best known for producing reliably inexpensive and simple country wines to slake the capital’s thirst. But viticulture in Spain is ancient and tenacious, so the adventurous can also find scattered vineyards situated in the most inaccessible places, including rockfalls and natural amphitheaters high up in the most remote parts of the backcountry. Daniel Landi and Fernando Garcia, friends since college, found themselves working in the area centered around the Sierra de Gredos: Daniel at his family’s estate, Bodegas Jimenez-Landi, and Fernando at Bodega Marañones. Drawn to the mountains and rumors of small, nearly inaccessible vineyard plots located high in the Sierra de Gredos, over time, they began purchasing and leasing the best sites they could find, creating their own project, Comando G in 2008. Along with the pioneers of the Priorat, Daniel and Fernando are redefining what was previously viewed as a workhorse variety, Garnacha, into something that can rival the elegance and finesse of Pinot in Burgundy or Syrah in the northern Rhône.

The vineyards that Daniel and Fernando have assembled are all farmed biodynamically. These vines range from 50 to 80 years old and are planted on sandy soils weathered from granite, slate, and quartz. A combination of high altitude, freely draining soils, and a mild and fairly humid micro-climate – for central Spain – guarantees a long growing season and a modest alcohol level in the finished wines. The resultant wines are startlingly pale, extraordinarily aromatic, and intensely flavorful. Each site is harvested by hand, usually in October, fermented by indigenous yeasts in open-top French oak casks, then aged in a combination of 500-700L French oak barrels, foudre, and clay amphorae.