94pts Mosel Fine Wines
The 2021er Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese has a slightly reductive yet beautifully smoky nose of flint stone, greengage, verbena, lime tree, and minty herbs. The wine proves dynamic and focused on the palate, with lively but ripe acidity and more creamy elements joining the party as it evolves. The finish is very long and focused, with delicate notes of orange blossom, almond, and grapefruit. This is a superb Spätlese in the making. 2031-2051.
Vintage after vintage, the Prüm family reasserts itself as an undisputed top-three producer in all of Germany. There is simply nothing like the shimmering, crystalline terroir expressions that emerge from this revered estate. Once again, the wine gods smiled upon the Mosel, as the 2021 vintage is the latest in a string of superb growing seasons, making this a line-up of unequivocal must-have cellar gems. Up and down the range, the genius of winemaker Dr. Katharina Prüm brilliantly shines through. The vintage is being roundly heralded as a return to the utterly enchanting, classic Mosel style of yesteryear, in contrast to the recent excellent, albeit warm and dry, vintages of the past several years. As Mosel Fine Wines recently declared, "2021 is a completely unique vintage with some of the finest Mosel wines we have ever tasted! Readers should plunge upon the brilliant fruity-styled wines, which have the lightness of the finest vintages ever in the region." One feature of note in 2021 is the reduced yields in the upper tiers of the prädikat spectrum—from the Spätlese category on up, allocations will be highly limited, so anyone wishing to stockpile these incredibly nuanced, filigreed wines will want to act with urgency on these first-tranche releases.